America's Test Kitchen Potato Soup Recipe: Velvety Texture With Perfect Potato Chunk Balance

America’s Test Kitchen potato soup delivers the velvety texture and perfect potato chunk balance that separates good soup from exceptional. This recipe combines precision techniques with simple ingredients to create a creamy, comforting bowl that’s foolproof every time.

The secret lies in a well-developed roux and careful blending—no lumps, no grittiness, just smooth perfection.

What sets this recipe apart is the chunky-smooth duality: tender potatoes hold their shape while blending creates that signature ATK creaminess. We start with a flavorful base of onions and celery, then build richness through a proper roux before adding potatoes and broth.

The result? A soup that’s restaurant-quality at home, with just the right balance of hearty and velvety.

By the time you’re done, you’ll have a perfectly seasoned soup with velvety broth and distinct potato chunks that disappear just enough to create that ideal texture. The aroma alone—warm, buttery, and inviting—will have everyone gathering around the pot. This is comfort food elevated to a science.

Serve with crusty bread for dipping or a sprinkle of fresh herbs for brightness. The method is precise, but the outcome is pure satisfaction. Let’s make this soup that stands out in any lineup.

Ingredients for america's test kitchen potato soup

Precision ingredients for restaurant-quality potato soup with velvety texture and perfect potato chunks.

The foundation starts with yellow onions and celery, known as the 'holy trinity' of soup bases. For optimal flavor, select onions with firm, papery skins and celery with crisp stalks—avoid any with woody cores. The unsalted butter must be cold when cubed to prevent premature roux breakdown; Plugrá brand is ideal for its high fat content. All-purpose flour should be sifted to eliminate lumps, ensuring a silky roux. For potatoes, Russets provide the best starchy texture, though Yukon Golds offer a slightly creamier finish. Purchase potatoes with minimal blemishes and store them in a cool, dark place to maintain their starch content.

Substitutions must maintain the soup's delicate balance. If heavy cream is unavailable, half-and-half with an extra 2 tbsp cream cheese works, though texture will differ slightly. For cheese, Parmesan or Gruyère can replace cheddar, but adjust to taste—these varieties have more pronounced flavors. Fresh thyme is preferable, but dried thyme at one-third the amount suffices in a pinch. The chicken broth should be low-sodium; if using store-bought, Swanson or Pacific Foods brands provide reliable quality. For those avoiding dairy, substitute heavy cream with full-fat coconut milk, though flavor will shift toward tropical notes.

Proper storage enhances this soup's longevity. After preparation, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days, though flavor peaks within the first 2 days. For longer storage, freeze in 1-cup portions for up to 3 months—thaw overnight in the refrigerator before reheating. When reheating, do so gently on low heat to prevent curdling. The roux-based richness makes this soup particularly suitable for meal prep, as it reheats beautifully while maintaining its velvety consistency. Always taste and adjust seasoning before serving, as flavors intensify upon reheating.

Step-by-step instructions for america's Test Kitchen potato soup recipe

Here's the method that delivers velvety texture and perfectly balanced potato chunks every time.

Melt the 0.5 cup unsalted butter in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the 2 whole yellow onions and 4 whole celery stalks, cooking until softened and translucent—about 8 minutes. This slow cook ensures the vegetables release their sweetness without browning.

Add the 4 cloves minced garlic and 0.25 cup fresh thyme leaves, stirring constantly for 30 seconds until fragrant. The thyme will infuse the soup with an earthy aroma while the garlic adds depth. At this point, you'll notice the vegetables have released their moisture and begun to caramelize slightly at the edges.

Sprinkle in the 0.5 cup sifted all-purpose flour and stir vigorously for 1 minute to create a smooth roux. This will thicken the soup and create that signature creamy texture. The mixture should turn a light golden color and coat the back of a spoon.

Gradually whisk in the 6 cups chicken broth, ensuring no lumps form. Add the 2 whole bay leaves and bring to a gentle simmer. Once simmering, add the peeled 3 lb russet potatoes cut into 1-inch chunks. The potatoes should be fully submerged—if not, add a splash of water.

Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. You'll see the potatoes begin to soften at the edges while maintaining their shape. This controlled cooking prevents them from falling apart while allowing maximum flavor absorption from the broth.

Season with the 1.5 tsp salt and 0.5 tsp black pepper. Taste the broth at this stage—it should be well-seasoned but not overwhelming. The potatoes should be tender when pierced with a knife but still hold their shape.

Reduce heat to low and stir in the 1 cup heavy cream. The soup will immediately become richer and more velvety. Add the 1 cup freshly grated sharp cheddar cheese and stir until completely melted and smooth. This is where the soup transforms from simple vegetable broth to luxurious comfort food.

Simmer gently for an additional 10 minutes. The cheese should be fully incorporated, creating a glossy finish on the soup's surface. Remove the 2 whole bay leaves before serving, as they're not meant to be eaten.

For the perfect texture, I recommend using an immersion blender to partially purée about half the soup while leaving the other half chunky. This creates a beautiful contrast of smooth and rustic textures in every spoonful. Adjust consistency with additional broth if needed.

Wine and beer pairings for this recipe

Crisp White Wine

Potato soup’s creamy richness pairs beautifully with a crisp white wine that cuts through the fat while complementing its savory depth. I reach for a Chardonnay from California’s Sonoma Coast—look for unoaked varieties with bright citrus and green apple notes.

The acidity refreshes your palate between spoonfuls, while its subtle mineral finish mirrors the soup’s velvety texture. For something lighter, a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (like Cloudy Bay) brings zesty grapefruit and herbal notes that contrast the soup’s richness. Serve slightly chilled—around 50°F—to enhance its freshness. 🍷

Malty Amber Ale

If you prefer beer, an amber ale bridges the gap between the soup’s creaminess and its savory base. I love Fat Tire from Colorado—its caramel malt and light hop bitterness balance the potato’s starchiness while adding a touch of sweetness.

For a bolder option, try a Belgian-style Dubbel like Westmalle Trappist—its dark fruit and spice notes harmonize with the thyme and cheddar. Serve at 45°F to let the malt shine without overwhelming the dish. 🍺

Creamy Dessert Wine

For a surprising but delightful pairing, consider a late-harvest Riesling or Moscato d’Asti. The wine’s natural sweetness mirrors the soup’s creaminess, while its acidity prevents it from feeling cloying. I recommend Dr. Loosen Blue Slate Riesling from Germany—its honeyed apricot and peach flavors complement the cheddar’s sharpness.

Serve slightly chilled (48°F) to let the wine’s texture echo the soup’s velvety mouthfeel. This combo works especially well for dessert-style servings. 🍇

Herbal Gin Fizz

For a refreshing non-alcoholic or light option, mix gin with tonic water and a twist of lemon. The botanicals in Hendrick’s Gin (cucumber and rose) provide a bright contrast to the soup’s richness, while the tonic’s bitterness cleanses the palate.

Add a splash of cucumber juice for extra freshness. Serve over ice in a tall glass to balance the soup’s heartiness with something crisp and invigorating. This pairing is perfect for warmer evenings. 🍹

Spiced Red Wine

If you prefer red, a light-bodied Pinot Noir with earthy notes works surprisingly well. I turn to Oregon’s Domaine Serene—its red fruit and subtle spice echo the thyme and black pepper in the soup.

For something bolder, a Gewürztraminer (yes, it’s technically white!) from Alsace brings lychee and spice that complement the cheddar’s sharpness. Decant for 30 minutes to open up its aromas. 🍷

Creamy Coffee Pairing

For a cozy, after-dinner option, pair the soup with a cold brew coffee or espresso topped with a dollop of heavy cream. The coffee’s bitterness contrasts the soup’s richness, while the cream adds a luxurious finish.

I like a light roast from Stumptown—its caramel notes harmonize with the soup’s sweet potatoes and thyme. Serve in a small mug to let the flavors meld without overpowering the meal. ☕

Frequently asked questions